Professional advice on how to buy diamond jewellery

Buying diamond jewellery with confidence

Thu

Nov

2016

DIAMOND JEWELLERY MADE IN SWITZERLAND

A look behind the scenes of a true jewellery alltime classic

The best things in life are often the simple ones – if they are made well.

But how does it work to create something on the highest quality level?

Quite simple, they, who manufacture by themselves, know what they do and make it with passion. There are classics in all fields, well done a dream, but a nightmare if it`s lovelessly made or presented. If you take for instance a simple swiss cuisine classic like „Rösti“ (fried grated potatoes) - adequately prepared delicious, but of course it needs a little time and work - potatoes must be cooked, have to rest in the fridge for two days and need to be peeled and grated. Golden yellow and crispy roasted in butter a potatoe can turn into a delicacy. This type of preparation is mouth watering and increases the appetite for more; everything else is simply sad. But if you find nowhere the original, nobody knows how it has to be at the end of the day. We humans become conditioned, that the traditional gets lost.

It is much easier to open a package with „convenience food“ and prepare it in a pan - without any additional work – what is common nowadays, and mainly we do not know anymore how something has to taste or look.

As well it is in our branch and easily can be illustrated if we take a look at diamond jewellery, an alltime classic of the jewellery cuisine. Of course we do need also the best ingrediens for a nice jewellery piece. The design of an object is indeed a matter of taste and as we all know, questions of taste should not be argued. But if we are talking about quality or the manufacturing process of diamond jewels, there are rules and traditional recipies which have to be respected while creating and manufacturing a high jewellery piece. Those who pretend something else, or mean, that these rules do not apply for them, are as lazy as the previously mentioned „convenience food“ cook. Of course, traditional manufacturing techniques are sometimes more labour-intensive, but if you know what you do, and professionals are entrusted to carry out that work, not necessarily more expensive.

Ring with monotonous lines, which appear sterile

Dynamic High Jewellery the way it should be

Obviously everything begins with an idea for a jewellery piece: therefore you have to start with the design. After designing and drawing we always, and here I can only speak for ourselves, produce a prototype in our house – mostly in sterling silver to get a concrete and three-dimensional impression about the final jewel in advance. Upon finishing we decide if the design is appealing or not and let the project rest for a certain period – similar as with the already mentioned potatoes .

Thus you have the opportunity to make modifications and adjustments.

A jewel should not only inspire on the first sight, it should be as well timeless, well-balanced and please again and again. As we all know, first impressions could turn out finally deceptive.

If the proportions are perfect, the next step follows, and this stage is highly important for the appearance of a diamond jewelery piece –the so called « disposition ». This kind of arrangement is fundamental for the laterly set diamonds. Here not only the expert, but also the aesthete is required.

We follow always the shape of the piece and try to highlight and underline it even more.

Accordingly you have to work with various diamond sizes, and if you compare by yourself different diamond jewellery pieces of similar designs (for example pavèrings), you will realize, that in many cases the used brilliants do have all the same diameter. The reason for this is quickly explained.

On the one hand the producers of such jewels prefer to use diamondsizes which are available for the lowest market price, on the other hand they save the disposition process. Another reason is, that the diamond-setter has a much easier work – he only has to set monotonously one and the same diamondsize. However this saving of time and labour definitely affects the final product negatively.

Just to visualize what I mean, please take a look at the attached images.

Monotonous lines, which seem sterile versus a lovingly arranged Pavè, which follows and respects the shape of the piece or rather underlines it, and exposes the brilliance of the diamonds in a perfect way.

I think, if one may choose, the decision is quite easy, but as said, one must first of all have the choice.

If a piece of jeweller is appropriately and professional conceptualized and prepared, as mentioned so far, the most important steps have been made. According to the disposition, the diamond setter drills the required holes for the later setting process.

Now the final decision: How should the jewel look on the back? One should watch a jewellery piece, without any exception, and this does not only apply to

diamond jewellery, from the reverse side. Please do not laugh now, but this also applies to the Swiss national dish mentioned at the beginning – only roasted

from one side, it is simply said not finished.

There are various options to complete a jewellery piece from the rear side. Sometimes it is appropriate to close the object at the back using a delicate metal sheet, but of course this one has to be mounted using spacers to give the piece a certain delicacy, as well optically and practically in respect of the weight. Everybody would like to have an ultimate comfort, nothing which is heavy or unpleasant. It is a little more work involved, but the final result is worth it.

If one wants to join the premium class in the highest jewellery level, the so-called “à jour“ is an absolute must and here the artisan is required 100%.

This type of decoration has to follow also the shape and style of the jewellery piece on the back side; an extensive work, but executed by a skilled goldsmith the result speaks for itself. The industry tries to imitate even this working process using so-called „wax printing machines“. These devices produce computer animated wax-models, which have the holes on the front side to set the diamonds or other precious stones, and show an „à jour“ on the reverse side. These models can easily be cast but of course this sterile plagiarism will be detected immediately by any connoisseur.

In a traditional way handmade à jour, which follows perfectly the design of the jewel - exactly how it has to be

Prime example of a carelessly work and mass production

Finally it can be said, that a diamond jewellery piece, manufactured in a classic and traditional way, gives the same pleasure like a lovingly prepared meal.

A little work and know-how cannot be replaced by anything else.